Home > Harry's Cosmeticology 9th Ed. >

Harry's Cosmeticology 9th Edition Volume 2
Harry's Cosmeticology 9th Edition Volume 2

Our Price: $300.00

Product Code: 9780820601779

ISBN-13/EAN: 9780820601779
Editor-In-Chief: Meyer R. Rosen
Chemical Publishing
Book - Hardback
Pub Date: Sept 2015
900 pages
Harry's Cosmeticology 9th Edition Volume 2

Part 4 Ingredients
Part 5 Anti-Aging

Part 4 Ingredients

Part 4.1.0


Editor's Introduction to the Ingredient Section

Editor of the Ingredients Section:
Chia Wen Chen
Executive Director of Basic ResearchBioActives
Este Lauder Companies
125 Pinelawn Road
Melville, NY 11747

Part 4.1.1

Surfactants: Thoughtful, Pro-Active Intervention
at the Interface of Multiphase Dispersed Systems

J. Mark Chandler
President of ACT Solutions Corp

Table of Contents

4.1.10 Surfactant Introduction

a. History
b. General Function
c. Use
d. Types

4.1.11 Functions

a. Emulsifying
b. Cleaning
c. Foaming
d. Solubilization
e. Conditioning
f. Dispersing
g. Lubricating

4.1.12 Applications: A look at some of the many

a. Creams and lotions
b. Shampoos
c. Skin cleansers
d. Conditioners
e. Color cosmetics
f. Antiperspirants

4.1.13 How Surfactants Work

a. Surface tension effects
b. Interfacial activity
c. Micelles
d. Aggregation structures
e. Charge effects
f. Foam generation
g. Foam stabilization

4.1.14 Surfactant Chemistry

a. Anionics
b. Nonionics
c. Amphoterics
d. Cationics


Part 4.1.2

Ingredients for Creating the Next Greatest Lipstick

Nick Morante
Nick Morante Cosmetic Consultants

Table of Contents: Introduction What attributes are we looking for in a lipstick? Traditional ingredients used in creating a lipstick Trendy and exotic ingredients for lipstick Miscellaneous


Part 4.1.3

Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid) A Natural Moisturizer Skin Care


Dr. Daniela Smejkalova Nano-carrier Development Group
Dr. Gloria Huerta-Angeles Biopolymers Modification Group
Tereza Ehlova Hyaluronan Fragments Group
Contipro Pharma, Doln Dobrou 401, 561 02, Czech Republic

Table of Contents Structure and selected physical-chemical properties of hyaluronan Preparation of hyaluronan fragments, isolation and characterization thereof, characterization of degradation products of hyaluronan Preparation of chemical derivatives of hyaluronan, characterization thereof Hyaluronan penetration into the stratum corneum and into the skin Moisturizing properties of native high-molecular hyaluronan and how the moisturizing properties change as the molecular weight is reduced Cosmetic application for various molecular weights of hyaluronan



Ayurveda in personal care

Smitha Rao MS, MBA
70 Tyler place South Plainfield NJ 07080

Table of Contents: Background and folkloric use of Ayurvedic medicine Ingredients appropriate for cosmetic/topical use Conclusion

Table 1


Probiotics in Topical Personal Healthcare: A New Understanding A Bright Future


Donald R. Owen, Ph.D., President
Owen Biosciences Inc.
7053 Revenue Dr.
Baton Rouge, LA 70809

Table of Contents Introduction Overview Conclusion



Green and sustainable ingredients from Biotransformation and biofermentation


Smitha Rao MS, MBA
70 Tyler place South Plainfield NJ 07080

Table of Contents: The rise of green and sustainable cosmetic ingredients from fermentation The impact on environment Activity in cosmetics


Part 4.1.5

Multi-Functional Botanicals for Topical Applications


Anurag Pande, Ph.D.
Sabinsa Corporation

Dr. Muhammed Majeed
Sabinsa Corporation

Table of Contents Introduction Natural and naturally derived actives Extraction techniques Role of standardization Multifunctional Botanicals

a. Saberry
b. Ellagic acid (from pomegranate)
c. Tetrahydrocurcuminoids (Turmeric extract)
d. Sabiwhite - 955 tetrahydrocurcumin extract
e. Cococin (Freeze-dried coconut water)
f. ForsLean (Coleus forskohlii rhizomes)
g. Cosmoperine (Piper nigrum fruits)
h. ARTONOX (Artocarpus lakoocha wood)
i. Eclipta alba (Bhringraja)
j. Ursolic acid (Salvia officinalis leaves)
k. Boswellin CG (Boswellia extract) Sustainability of Botanicals


Part 4.1.6

Ingredients to Strengthen Skin Barrier Integrity:
From algal protective exoskeleton to a Protective Barrier for the Epidermis


Alexandra Jeanneau
Scientific communication officer, Alban Muller Group

Table of contents Skin barrier and epidermis organization overview

a. Epidermis cell structures for skin resistance and cohesion
b. Cell structures depending on calcium
c. Calcium's information-signaling properties Solution for alterations in epidermis

a. Epidermis structures responsible for epidermis resistance
b. Improving calcium bioavailability A natural ingredient to strengthen skin barrier integrity inspired by an alga's primitive strategy

a. A primitive strategy involving calcium
b. An ingredient with a unique mode of action
c. Stimulation of calcium-depending cell structures
1. Cytokeratin synthesis
2. Desmosome formation
d. Restoring intercellular communication, a key factor of the epidermis functioning
e. Improving skin barrier integrity: a better protective shield against pollution



Antimicrobial Preservatives for the Cosmetic and Personal Care Industry


Daryl Paulson Ph.D.
President and Chief Executive Officer
BioScience Laboratories, Inc.

Table of Contents: The use of Preservatives in Cosmetics, a brief history Traditional Preservatives Problems we face with the use of preservatives



Antioxidants: Extending the Shelf Life of Your Products


Satish Nayak, Ph.D.
Kemin Industries,
2100 Maury Street, Des Moines, Iowa

Table of Contents: Introduction Oxidation Antioxidants Primary Antioxidants Secondary Antioxidants Antioxidant Assays


Part 4.2.1

Natural and Synthetic Polymers:
Designing Rheological Properties for Applications


Susan Freers
Grain Processing Corporation

Table of Contents: Designing Rheological Behavior Natural and Synthetic Polymers: Rheological Properties and Applications Rheological additives used to obtain specific properties Rheological additives for aqueous systems Rheological additives for non-aqueous systems


Part 4.2.2

Rheology Modifiers and Consumer Perception


Lisa Gandolfi, Ph.D.
Clariant Corporation
Technical Manager, Consumer Care North America
625 East Catawba Avenue
Mount Holly, NC 28120 USA

Ramiro Galleguillos, Ph.D.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc.
Senior Research Associate
9911 Brecksville Rd.
Brecksville, Ohio 44141 USA

Table of Contents: Introduction Rheological Parameters

a. Viscosity
b. Viscosity Measurement
c. Viscosity of polymeric rheology modifiers
d. Yield Stress
e. Viscoelasticity Synthetic Polymeric Rheology Modifiers

a. Modified Sulfonic Acid (AMPS) Polymers
b. AMPS Polymers Rheological Properties
c. Polyacrylic Acid Polymers
d. Polyacrylic Acid Polymers Rheological Properties
e. Alkali Swellable Emulsion Polymers - ASE/HASE Polymers
f. Rheological Properties of ASE/HASE Polymers Rheological Properties and the Consumer Experience Polymeric Rheology Modifiers in Emulsion Formulations

a. Yield stress for emulsion stability
b. Relationship between rheological properties and the sensory experience
c. Speed of Breakdown
d. Spreadability
e. Pick-up and Cushion
f. Skin Afterfeel
g. Correlation of Rheological Measurements and Consumer Perception in Emulsion Formulations Polymeric Rheology Modifiers in Hydroalcoholic Formulations Polymeric Rheology Modifiers in Optical Effects Cleansing Formulations



Silicones in Personal Care Products:
Polydimethyl Siloxanes, Organosilicone Polymers, & Copolymers


Anthony J. O'Lenick, Jr.
Siltech LLC
2170 Luke Edwards Rd
Dacula, Ga 30019

Thomas O'Lenick PhD
Technical Director
SurfaTech Corporation
1625 Lakes Parkway
Suite N
Lawrenceville Ga 30043

Meyer R. Rosen, FRSC, CPC, CChE, FAIC
Interactive Consulting. Inc
P.O. Bo 66
East Norwich, New York, 11732

Table of Contents:

Preface Introduction Solubility Surface Tension Silicone Nomenclature

a. Summary of Silicone Polymer Structure Types Volatile Silicones

a. Cyclomethicone Replacements
b. Summary of Successful Replacements for Cyclomethicones Silicone Fluids

a. Low-Viscosity Silicones
b. Standard-Viscosity Fluids
c. High-Viscosity Fluids
d. Ultra-High-Viscosity Fluids (Gums)
e. Summary of Silicone Polymer Behavior Resins and Elastomers

a. Resin Types
b. MQ Resins
c. MDQ Resin
d. Silicone Crosspolymers Dimethicone Copolyol (PEG/PPG Dimethicone)

a. Wetting Properties as a Function of Molecular Weight
b. Eye Irritation as a Function of Molecular Weight
c. Formulation Ingredient Interactions
d. Water Tolerance
e. Antiperspirant Release
f. Summary Alkyl Dimethicone

a. Alkyl effects
b. Silicone-to-alkyl ratio effects
c. Example: Cetyl Dimethicone
d. Behenyl Dimethicone Multi-Domain Alkyl Dimethicone

a. Syneresis Improvement with Multi-Domain Silicones
b. Summary Alkyl Dimethicone Copolyol Greening with Silicone
a. Summary



Silicone Elastomer Applications


John Gormley
Director of Regulatory Affairs /QA
Grant Industries
103 Main Avenue
Elmwood Park, NJ 07407 USA

Table of Contents: Silicone Elastomers for Improved Consumer Acceptance of a Product: Achieving the "WOW" effect Cosmetic Attributes Texture and Oil Control (Mattifying) Example Cosmetic Formulas with Silicone Elastomers Summary


Part 4.2.4

Skin Whitener Ingredients


Herve Offredo, MSc in Microbiology, MBA in Management and Finance
Senior Vice President Sales and Marketing
Barnet Products
140 Sylvan Avenue
Englewood Cliffs, 07632 NJ

Table of Contents: Historic Evolution of Whitening Products in Japan What Is a Whitening Quasi-Drug? What Are the Quasi-Drug Additives?

a. In the melanocytes
b. In the keratinocyte
c. In the nervesa new approach to the reduction of dark spots
d. For the corneocytes


Part 4.2.5

Marine Ingredients for Skin Care: An Ocean of Resources


Herve Offredo
MSc in Microbiology, MBA in Management and Finance
Senior Vice President Sales and Marketing
Barnet Products
140 Sylvan Avenue
Englewood Cliffs, 07632 NJ

Table of Contents: Marine resources

a. What is an alga?
b. Plants from the shore
c. Other resources from marine origins Examples of the use of macroalgae in cosmetics

a. Moisturization
b. Slimming
c. Fountain of youth
d. Oligosaccharides Examples of the use of microalgae in cosmetics

a. Exopolysaccharides
b. Photolyase
c. Thioreduxine/thioreduxine reductase Examples of the use of coastal plants in cosmetics

a. Retinol-like
b. The discovery of AQP 8


Part 4.2.6

Topical Reduction of Visible Skin Deterioration Due to Cellulite


Peter T Pugliese, MD, 7139 Bernville Road, Bernville, PA 19506
Michael Q. Pugliese, LE, Circadia by Dr Pugliese 8371 Route 183 Bethel, PA 19507

Table of Contents: A Possible Etiology for Cellulite The Menstrual Cycle The Matrix Metalloproteinases The Menstrual Cycle, MMPs, and Ovulation The MMPs and the Menstrual Cycle The key step relating menses to the genesis of cellulite Topical Therapy for Reversing the Appearance of Cellulite

a. Chysinan aromatase inhibitor
b. Chrysin
c. DIM, or Diindolymethane Agents That Block MMPs Mobilizing Adipose Tissue Blocking Phosphodiesterase Shuttling Fat into Mitochondria Rebuilding Collagen Collagen Stimulators Clinical Studies


Part 4.3.1

Topical Retinoids


Aanand N. Geria, MD

Table of Contents: Introduction Pharmacology Indications

a. Acne
b. Melasma and Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
c. Photo-Aging Adverse Effects


Part 4.3.2

Peptides for Anti-Aging Skin Care


Howard Epstein, Ph.D.
EMD Chemicals
One International Plaza, Philadelphia, PA 19113

Table of Contents: Peptides for Anti-Aging Skin Care What is a peptide? Skin Structure and Peptide Categories Bioactive Peptides Marketed for Skin Care Products


Part 4.3.3

MicroRNAs in Skin Physiology


Jean-Marie Botto (Ph.D.), Valre Busuttil (Ph.D.), Florian Labarrade (M.Sc.), Catherine Serre (M.Sc.), Laurine Bergeron (M.Sc.), Christophe Capallere (M.Sc.), and Nouha Domloge (M.D.)
Ashland Specialties France, Global Skin Research Center, Upstream Research, Sophia-Antipolis, France.

Table of Contents: RNA interference and microRNAstimeline of the discoveries

a. Discovery of microRNAs
b. The concept of RNA interference MicroRNAs - nomenclature, structure, function, mechanism of action MicroRNAs regulate various aspects of human physiology and epigenetics MicroRNAs and skin physiology

a. Introduction on skin
b. MicroRNAs and cutaneous biology
c. Epidermal renewal and skin barrier
d. MiR-203 is a master regulator of epidermal differentiation
e. P63, SOCS3, Zfp281, JUN, and ABL1 are the major mir-203 targets in the epidermis
f. Other microRNAs important in epidermal renewal
g. Skin pigmentation
h. Dermal physiology
i. MicroRNAs and the hypodermal adipocytes
j. Hair follicle morphogenesis Interest of microRNAs in the evaluation in vitro of anti-aging dermo-cosmetic ingredients

a. Skin aging
b. MicroRNAs and cellular senescence
c. Tissue-engineering and microRNA studies


Part 4.3.4

Amino Acids


Bruce W. Gesslein
Technical Manager, Specialty and Personal Care
Ajinomoto North America, Inc.
400 Kelby St, Fort Lee NJ 07024 USA

Table of Contents: Overview of Amino Acids

a. Production
b. Properties The Appearance of Aging of Skin and Hair

a. Skin
b. Wrinkling
c. Elasticity
d. Clarity
e. Hydration
f. UV Damage Hair

a. Breakage
b. Dullness
c. Elasticity
d. Roughness Formulation for Skin Care

a. Cleansers
b. Moisturizers
c. Serums Hair Care

a. Shampoos
b. Conditioners


Part 4.3.5

AHAs and Beyond: Anti-Aging Ingredients and Their
Benefits for All Layers of the Skin

Ronni L. Weinkauf, Ph.D.
VP, Applied Research Hair, Skin, and Makeup
L'Oreal USA
111 Terminal Ave
Clark, NJ

Contributing Authors:
Peter Konish
Director of Sensory and Formulation Development
NeoStrata Company, Inc
307 College Road East
Princeton, NJ 08540

Stacy S. Hawkins, Ph.D.
Global Clinical Leader
Unilever Research and Development
50 Commerce Drive, Trumbull, CT 06615

Uma Santhanam, Ph.D.
Senior Manager, Cell Biology and In Vitro Toxicology
Avon Products, Inc.
One Avon Place
Suffern, NY 10901

Table of Contents: Introduction Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) Quantitative Clinical Benefits of AHAs Cellular and Structural Changes Associated with AHAs Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) Bionic Acids (BAs) Formulation Strategies for Maximizing Hydroxy Acid Performance N-Acetylamino Sugars N-Acetylamino Acids

Part 4.3.6

Cytokines, Growth Factors, and Stem Cells: Newest Approaches to Younger Looking Skin


Sarah A Malerich, BS, Lake Erie College of Osteopathic Medicine, 5000 Lakewood Ranch Blvd, Bradenton, Florida, 34211
Nils Krueger, PhD, and Neil S. Sadick, Sadick Dermatology Research Group, 911 Park Avenue, Suite 1A, New York, New York, 10075

Table of Contents: Aging Growth Factors and Cytokines Stem Cells

Part 4.3.7

Antioxidants in Cosmetics for Anti-Aging

Ratan K. Chaudhuri
Sytheon Ltd.,
Boonton, New Jersey

Table of Contents: Background Causes of UV-Induced Chemical and Biochemical Changes in Skin Antioxidants in the Defense System of the Skin Consequences of UV-Induced Chemical and Biochemical Changes in Skin Use of Conventional and Nonconventional Antioxidants for Skin Protection and Reversal of Signs of Aging

a. Conventional Antioxidants
b. Other Photoprotectants


Part 5 Anti-Aging

Part 5.0

Fundamentals of Skin Anti-Aging Overview

Navin M. Geria, Chief Scientific Officer, AyurDerm Technologies LLC

Howard Epstein Ph.D., EMD Chemicals, Philadelphia, PA

Part 5.1

Theories of Aging
Skin Anti-Aging: At the Tipping Point

Navin M. Geria, Chief Scientific Officer, AyurDerm Technologies LLC

Table of Contents:

5.1.1 Theories of Aging

a. Wear and Tear Theory (Immunological Theory)
b. The Neuro-Endocrine Theory
c. The Genetic Control Theory
d. The Free Radical Theory
e. Mitochondrial Theory
f. Waste Accumulation Theory
g. Hayflick Limit Theory
h. Death Hormone Theory
i. Caloric Restriction Theory
j. The Cross-Linking Theory
k. The Telomerase Theory
l. Glycation Theory
m. Mutation Accumulation and DNA/RNA Damage
n.Deficient Immune System/Autoimmune Theory
o. Inflammation Theory


Part 5.2

The Cellular Water Principle


Howard Murad, MD
2121 Rosecrans Avenue, 5th Floor
El Segundo, CA 90245

Table of Contents:

Theories of Aging and Cellular Water

5.2.1 What is aging, from a physiological perspective?
5.2.2 Why do we age?
5.2.3 Water loss and membrane hypothesis of aging
5.2.4 The Science of Cellular Water

Part 5.3

Anti-Senescence: Achieving the Anti-Aging Effect by Managing Cellular Functions


Shyam Gupta, Ph.D.
Bioderm Research

Linda Walker
CoValence, Inc.

Table of Contents:

5.3.1 Role of Cellular Senescence and Apoptosis in Skin Aging

5.3.2 Role of Enzyme Dysfunction in Skin Aging

a. Oxidative Stress and Free Radicals
b. Peroxisomes
c. Immunosenescence
d. Advanced Glycation End Products (Ages)
e. Proteasomes in Cellular Anti-Senescence
f. Mitochondrial Free Radical Theory of Aging (Mfrta)

5.3.3 Anhydrobiosis and Skin Aging

5.3.4 Osmoprotection, Cellular Anti-Senescence, and Skin Anti-Aging

a. Hyperosmarity, Inflammation, and Cellular Senescence
b. Chemical Basis of Hyperosmarity

5.3.5 New Peptide Derivatives for Anti-Senescence and Skin Anti-Aging

a. Chemical Discovery
b. Formulation Methodology

5.3.6 Consumer Perception and Marketing of Enzyme Biology-Based Skin Care Products


Part 5.4

Glycation, Proteasome Activation, and Telomere Maintenance

Karl Lintner, PhD
President of Kal'idees S.A.S.

Table of Contents:

5.4.1 Glycation

a. Measurement of AGEs
b. Prevention and/or Reversal of Glycation/Glycoxidation
c. In vitro data
d. Ex vivo data on explants
e. In vivo studies
f. Conclusion

5.4.2 The Proteasome

a. Introduction
b. Cosmetic approach to proteasome activity
c. The study of the LC3-II protein
d. Caveat

5.4.3 Telomeres

a. Introduction
b. Telomere length and aging
c. Senescence
d. Cosmetic ideas on telomere maintenance


Part 5.5

Sirtuins and Skin

Edward Pelle, Este Lauder Research Laboratories; Melville, New York
Nadine Pernodet, Environmental Medicine, New York University School of Medicine

Table of Contents

5.5.1 Introduction to sirtuins
5.5.2 Organelle-specific biochemistry of sirtuins
5.5.3 Sirtuin response to environmental changes
5.5.4 Application of sirtuins to anti-aging skin care

Part 5.6

Epigenetics of Skin Aging


Rebecca James Gadberry
Senior Instructor & Program Coordinator,
Cosmetic Sciences, UCLA Extension
Consultant, Skin Care Strategy, Brand & Product Development

Table of Contents:

5.6.1 The Human Genome Project Gives Birth To The Epigenetic Revolution
5.6.2 Epigenetics Defined

5.6.3 Two Primary Epigenetic Mechanisms

1. DNA methylation
2. Chromatin remodeling and histone modification

5.6.4 Epigenetic Links To Aging
5.6.5 Epigenetics And Aging Skin
5.6.6 Epigenetics Mechanisms In DNA Damage and Repair
5.6.7 Cosmetic Ingredients As Epigenetic Modifiers
5.6.8 Nutriepigenetics: How Diet Alters the Epigenome
5.6.9 Epigenetics: The Unifying Theory Of Aging?
5.6.10 What the Future Holds

List of Figures

Part 5.7

Chronobiology of the Skin
Skin Circadian Rhythm and Clock Genes:
A New Approach to Slowing Down the Aging Process


Nadine Pernodet, Ph.D. Vice President of Skin Biology Research

Edward Pelle, Ph.D. Director, Skin Biology Research
Este Lauder Research Laboratories
Melville, NY, US

Table of Contents:

5.7.1 Introduction to Circadian Rhythm and Clock Genes
5.7.2 Desynchronization: Causes and Impact
5.7.3 Skin Circadian Rhythm

Part 5.8

Stress, Sleep and Epigenetic Orthodontics:
New Directions for Non-Surgical Skin Anti-Aging

Dr. Barry Chase DDS

Table of Contents:

Stress, Sleep and Epigenetic Orthodontics:
New Directions for Non- Surgical Skin Anti-Aging

5.8.1 Sleep, Sleep Deprivation, Sleep Disorders, and Skin Aging

a. Normal SleepSleep Stages and Sleep Cycles:
b. Sleep Latency
c. Sleep Stage N1
d. Sleep Stage N2
e. Sleep Stage N3
f. Rapid Eye Movement (REM) Sleep
g. Sleep Disorders, Chronic Stress, and the Impact on Aging and Skin
h. The Pathophysiology of Stressthe Hyper-Arousal of the Autonomic Nervous System
i. Sleep and Chronic Stress
j. Insomnia
k. Obstructive Sleep Apnea

5.8.12 Sleep, Aging, and Aging Skin

a. Sleep Quality and Sleep Deprivation
b. Circadian Rhythm
c. Sleep, Human Growth Hormone: Aging and Skin
d. Chronic Stress and Sleep; Cortisol, Epinephrine, Aging, and Skin
e. Epinephrine and the Skin
f. Free Radicals, Sleep and Aging

5.8.13 Therapy

a. Insomnia
b. Non-medical Cognitive Behavioral Therapy
c. Sleep Hygiene
d. Obstructive Sleep Apnea (OSA) and Aging
e. C-PAP Therapy
f. Oral Appliance Therapy (OAT)


Part 5.8.2
Epigenetic Orthodontics and Dento-Facial Orthopedics:
Non-surgical Facial Esthetic Therapy

Share your knowledge of this product with other customers... Be the first to write a review