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Features
Harry's Cosmeticology 9th Edition Volume 3
Part 6 Formulating
Part 7 Sensory Characterization
Part 8 Delivery Systems
Part 9 Nutracosmetics
Part 10 Nanocosmetics
Part 11 Testing
Part 12 Sustainability
Part 13 Cosmetic Manufacturing
Part 14 Packaging
Part 6 Formulating
Formulating Cosmetics and Personal Care Products
Editor:
Charles Warren
President, Charles F. Warren Consulting Inc
Contributors:
Charles Warren Charles F. Warren Consulting Inc.
Eva Patel, Skin Rx
Gurpreet (Gogi) Sangha, CEO of G.S. Cosmeceutical
Mark Lees, Ph.D., M.S., CIDESCO Diplomate
Germain Puccetti, Ashland Chemical
Nevine Issa, and Hani Fares Ph.D.
Carrie Shipley, Grain Processing Corporation
Padmaja Prem, VP of Combe's Global Research
Skin Care
Overview
6.1 Formulating Wisdom Category by Category (Author: Charles Warren)
6.2 Skin Lightening, Whitening, and Brightening:
An Overview of Approaches, Key Ingredients, and Formulations for Enhancing Skin Appearance and Correcting/Minimizing Common Skin Pigmentation Disorders
(Authors: Eva Patel and Gogi Sangha)
6.2.1 Definitions
6.2.2 Common Skin Pigmentation Disorders
6.2.3 Triggers for Hyperpigmentation
6.2.4 Pathway to Hyperpigmentation
6.2.5 Formulating IngredientsA Plethora of raw materials and how they come into play
6.2.6 Formulations for Individual Skin Conditions
6.2.7 Claims / Regulations for USA
6.3 Sunscreens (Author Charles Warren)
6.4 Antiperspirants / Deodorants (Author Charles Warren)
6.5 Acne, Oily, ad Aging Skin Product Formulation (Author Mark Lees)
6.5.1 Introduction
a. The Acne-Prone and Clog-Prone Skin: A Client Profile
6.5.2. Review of factors in acne development
a. Genetics
b. The Development of Acne Lesions
c. Hormonal Factors
d. Topical and Environmental Factors
6.5.3 Management of acne-prone skin
a. Sebum/oiliness management
b. Follicular Keratolytics
c. Avoidance of Acnegenic and Comedogenic Products
6.5.4 A Program Approach
a. Case Studies
References
6.6 Face and Body - Masks / Scrubs (Author Charles Warren)
6.6.1 Cleansers/Scrubs
6.6.2 Wipes
6.6.3 Moisturizers
6.6.4 Treatments
6.6.5 Perfumes/Fragrances
6.7 Shaving Preparations: Pre and Post (Author Charles Warren)
6.7.1 Men's Products
a. Shave Creams
b. After-Shave Lotions
6.7.2 Women's Products
a. Shaving Products
b. Depilatories
c. Bleaches
Pigmented Cosmetics
6.8 Color Cosmetics: An Introduction to Formulation and Approaches for Mascaras, Foundations and Lipsticks
(Authors: Germain Puccetti, Nevine Issa, and Hani Fares)
6.8.1 Color cosmetics and the consumer perspective
6.8.2 Foundations
a. Formulas
b. Pigments
6.8.3 Lipsticks and lip-glosses
a. Formulas
b. Color
c. Gloss ingredients
d. Oils
e. Waxes
f. Solvents
g. Silicones
h. Polymers
i. Additional ingredients
6.8.4 Mascaras
a. Basic formulation
b. Advanced ingredients
6.8.5 Skincare actives in foundations and lipsticks
References
Hair Care
6.9 Formulating Wisdom Category by Category
6.10 Shampoos
Ingredients, Formulation and Efficacy Evaluation
(Author Carrie Shipley, Applications Scientist, Grain Processing Corporation)
Introduction
Section I: Typical Shampoo Ingredients
6.10.1 Surfactants
6.10.2 Rheology and Viscosity Modifiers
6.10.3 Other Shampoo Ingredients
6.10.4 Fragrance
6.10.5 Preservatives
6.10.6 Types of Shampoos
Section II: Hair-Cleansing Mechanism
6.10.7 Cleaning of solid particulates
6.10.8 Cleaning of oily soil
6.10.9 Efficacy of soil removal by shampoos
6.10.10 Cleaning of sebum
6.10.11 Cleaning of quaternary ammonium compounds
6.10.12 Cleaning of polymeric residue
6.10.13 Effect of shampoos on hair
Section III: Shampoo Evaluation
Section IV: Future Trends in Shampoos
References
Glossary
6.11 Hair Styling (Author Charles Warren)
a. Nonpressurized Styling Products
b. Pressurized Styling Products
6.12 Specialty Styling Products (Author Charles Warren)
6.13 Permanent Waving (Author Charles Warren)
6.14 Conditioners/Treatments (Author Charles Warren)
6.15 Hair Colorants and Protection
(Author: Padmaja Prem Vice President, Research & Development
Combe Incorporated, 1101 Westchester Avenue
White Plains, NY 10604)
6.15.1 Introduction
6.15.2 Fundamentals of Hair Coloring
6.15.3 Factors Influencing Color Fading and Color Removal
6.15.4 Color Protection
6.15.5 Color Vibrancy and Shine
6.15.6 Remedies for Color Protection, Vibrancy, and Shine
6.15.7 Ingredients and Products for Color-Treated Hair
6.15.8 Conclusions
References
6.16 Reactive Hair Care Products (Author Charles Warren)
6.16.1 Colors
6.16.2 Bleaches
6.16.3 Straighteners
6.17 Formula/Product Development from the Formulator's Viewpoint (Expectations, Initial Prototypes, Final Prototypes) (Author Charles Warren)
6.17.1 Functionality/Performance
6.17.2 Marketing Requirements/Expectations
6.17.3 Manufacturing Requirements/Expectations
6.17.4 New Raw Materials, Bases, Forms
6.17.5 Final Packaging
6.17.6 Stability
6.17.7 Personal Trial
6.17.8 Preliminary Stability
6.17.9 Final Formulation
6.17.10 Final Stability
Part 6.18
Oral Care: Formulating Products and Practices for Health and Beauty
Editor:
Caren M. Barnes
Professor Coordinator of Clinical Research
University of Nebraska Medical Center College of Dentistry
Contributors:
Chi Shing Wong
Member, Product Development Group
Colgate-Palmolive Global Toothbrush Division
James G Masters, Ph.D.
Director in the Research and Development Division
Colgate-Palmolive Company
Shira Pilch, Ph.D.
Associate Director: Research and Development Division
Colgate-Palmolive Company
Michael Prencipe, Ph.D.
Director in the Research and Development Division
Colgate-Palmolive Company
Table of Contents:
6.18 Introduction
A. Important Issues in Oral Health
B. Importance of Aesthetics in Dentistry
C. Halitosis (oral malodor)
D. Oral Issues Related to Aging
1. Demographics of Aging: What to Expect
2. Oral Health and the Aging
6.18.1 Personal Oral Care
A. Dentifrices
1. Regulation (Therapeutic vs. Cosmetic Benefits)
2. Stain Removal
3. Abrasion
4. Ingredients
5. Therapeutic Ingredients
6. Non-Therapeutic Ingredients for Cosmetic Benefits
B. Mouthrinses
1. Ingredients
2. Manufacture
3. Packaging
6.18.2 Oral Hygiene Aids
A. Manual Toothbrush
1. Historical Perspective
2. Importance of Toothbrush Features
B. Powered Toothbrush
1. Historical Perspective
2. Types of Powered Toothbrushes
a. Range of Products
b. Action
c. Sonic and Ultrasonic
d. Additional Features
C. Interdental Cleaning Devices
1. Importance of Interdental Cleaning
2. Dental FlossThe Shortcomings
3. Interdental Brushes
4. Additional Interdental Cleaning Aids
Summary
References
Part 7. Sensory Characterization
Part 7.1
Sensory Signals The applied science of sensory perception and its value
Author:
Lee Stapleton
Program Director
Sensory Spectrum
Table of Contents:
7.1.1 Overview
7.1.2 History of sensory evaluation
7.1.3 Defining sensory properties
7.1.4 Rationale for generating technical-based language for objective product description
7.1.5 Introduction to descriptive analysis methodology
7.1.6 The spectrum descriptive analysis method: philosophy and principles
7.1.7 Fundamentals for developing lexicons
7.1.8 Process for developing personal care product lexicons
7.1.9 Sample lexicon and testing protocol for lotions and creams
7.1.10 Sample protocol for skin preparation and maintenance during testing
7.1.11 Sample lexicon and testing protocol for evaluation of hair tresses
7.1.12 Sample lexicon and testing protocol for evaluation of lather and skinfeel of bar soaps
7.1.13 Sample lexicon and testing protocol for evaluation of appearance and skinfeel of antiperspirants using inner arm site
7.1.14 Sample lexicon and testing protocol for evaluation of appearance and skinfeel of facial foundation using half-face
7.1.15 Applications of descriptive analysis for personal care and cosmetics
References
Part 8. Delivery Systems
Part 8.1
Delivery Systems for Cosmetics and Personal Care
Authors:
Nripen S. Sharma Ph.D., Salvona LLC ,
Bryan Grossman
Sam Shefer Ph.D.
Table of Contents:
8.1.1 Background and Motivation
8.1.2 Classification of Delivery Systems
a. Powder Technologies
b. Improving Performance - MultiSal
c. Gel- based encapsulation systems
d. Porous polymeric systems
8.1.3 Lipid-B based Encapsulation Systems
a. Liposomes
b. Solid Lipid Nanoparticles
c. Lipid-based sub-micron technology - SalSphere
8.1.4 Sugar-Bbased Technologies
a. Cyclodextrins
8.1.5 Other Delivery Systems
a. HydroSal Technology
b. Cellesence
c. Fermenich
d. Thermarome
e. Givaudan
f. Evoglass
1. Retinol
2. Menthol
3. Resveratrol
4. Benzoyl Peroxide
5. Salicylic Acid
6. Fragrances
8.1.6 Technical Challenges in Delivery Systems
References
Part 9 Nutracosmetics
Part 9.1
The Use of Nutraceutical Ingredients in the Cosmetic Industry
Author:
Qi Jia
Chief Science Officer
Unigen Inc. 3005 First Avenue, Seattle, WA 98121
Table of Contents:
9.1.1 Introduction
9.1.2 Nutraceutical ingredients that are suitable for cosmetic usage
9.1.3 Characterization of nutracosmetic ingredients based on biological function
a. Anti-oxidation
b. Anti-inflammation
c. Immune protection
d. Skin hydration
e. Supporting healthy skin-cell renewal and rebuilding dermal structure
f. Anti-skin aging
9.1.4 Bioavailability and clinical considerations
Conclusion
Acknowledgement
References
Part 9.2
Multi-Functional Botanicals for Nutricosmetics Applications
Authors:
Anurag Pande, Ph.D.
Dr. Muhammed Majeed
Sabinsa
Table of Contents:
9.2.1 Introduction (aAbout the Nutricosmetics in general)
9.2.2 Global market
9.2.3 Ayurveda and Botanicals
9.2.4 Multifunctional Nutricosmetics
a. Amla - Saberry (Indian Gooseberry)
b. Green Tea polyphenols (Green Tea)
c. Ellagic acid (Pomegranate)
d. Curcumin C3 Reduct (Turmeric)
e. Cococin (Coconut Water)
Conclusion
Part 10 NanoCosmetics
Part 10.1
Nanocosmetics
Authors:
Allison Kutner,
Joy Makdisi,
Adam Friedman, MD, FAAD
Division of Dermatology
Albert Einstein College of Medicine
Table of Contents:
Nanotechnology and anti-aging
10.1.1 Introduction
10.1.2 Nanomaterials for skin delivery: nanoemulsions, liposomes, and nanoparticles
a. Nanoemulsions
b. Liposomes
c. Nanoparticles
10.1.3 Nanotechnology and photoprotection
10.1.4 Nanotechnology and hair care
10.1.5 Nanotechnology and makeup/coverup
10.1.6 Nanotechnology and emollient therapy
10.1.7 Nanotechnology and anti-aging
Conclusion
References
Part 11 Testing
Part 11.1
Methods to Assess Skin Barrier Integrity:
Effects of Cleansing Products
Authors:
Guojin Lu,
Roger L. McMullen,
David J. Moore
Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Table of Contents:
11.1.1 Introduction
a. Skin structure and functions
b. Cleansing and commonly used surfactant systems in cleansing formulations
c. Skin damages by cleansing products
11.1.2 Physicochemical interactions between surfactants and skin
a. SC protein binding, denaturation, dissolution, and SC swelling
b. SC lipid extraction and selective removal
c. Disruption of SC lipid organization/structure and change of lipid composition
d. pH effect
11.1.3 Approaches and methods to assess the effects of cleansing stresses on skin barrier integrity
a. Surfactant-skin/SC interactions
1. Sensory testing and substantiating instrumental methods
2. Microscope, video microscopy for skin surface topography
3. Skin penetration/permeability by Franz cell and impedance measurements
4. Mechanical behavior of skin
5. Bioengineering methods to measure water flux and water content of skin
b. Surfactant-lipid interactions
1. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC)
2. Vibrational spectroscopy (FT-IR)
3. Quartz crystal microbalance (QCM)
c. Skin-protein interactions
1. BSA denaturation test
2. Zein solubility assay
3. NMF level measurements
Conclusion
References
Part 11.2
Imaging Techniques and Analysis for Quantification of Skin Appearance
Author:
Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.
Principal Scientist
Materials Science Department
Ashland, Inc.
Bridgewater, NJ 08807
Adjunct Professor
School of Natural Sciences
Fairleigh Dickinson University
Teaneck, NJ 07666
Table of Contents:
11.2.1 Skin Surface Imaging and Analysis
a. Polarized Light Photography
b. Imaging Techniques with Skin Replicas
c. Fringe Projection Methods to Measure Skin Topography
d. Pore Measurements
e. Skin Thermography
f. Ultraviolet (UV) Reflectance Photography
g. Fluorescence Reflectance Photography
h. Multi-Spectral Multi-Modal Facial Imaging
i. Photographic Analysis of Lips
j. Hyperpigmentation Measurements of Skin
k. Imaging of Cellulite
11.2.2 In Vivo Imaging of Internal Features of Skin
a. Reflectance Confocal Microscopy
b. Ultrasonography
11.2.3 High-Resolution Microscopic Techniques for Imaging Skin
a. Reflected Light Microscopy (Epi-illumination)
b. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM)
c. Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM)
d. Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM)
11.2.4 Image Analysis to Quantify Histological and Immunofluorescent Staining of Ex Vivo and In Vitro Skin Cell Cultures
a. Measuring Pigmentation of Histological Skin Sections
b. Immunofluorescence Staining Quantification in Fibroblast Cell Cultures
c. Image Analysis of Triple-Stained Normal Human Keratinocytes (NHKs)
d. Measurement of Collagen IV Expression at the Dermal-Epidermal Junction
Conclusion
Acknowledgments
References
Part 11.3
Biophysical Measurement and Evaluation of Skin Elasticity and Topography
Authors:
Stefanie Luebberding, PhD
Nils Krueger, PhD
IRosenpark Research
Wilhelminenstrae 13
64283 Darmstadt (Germany)
Table of Contents:
11.3.1 Skin Topography
a. Quantitative assessment of skin topography
b. Replica-based methods
c. 3D Photogrammetry
d. Fringe Projection Method
11.3.2 Skin Elasticity
a. Quantitative assessment of skin elasticity
b. Tensile Testing
c. Torsion Technique
d. Impact Technique
e. Elevation Technique
Conclusion
References
Glossary
Part 11.4
A Survey of Test Methodology Used in Evaluating the Damage, Protection and Repair of Hair
Authors:
Ray Rigoletto Sr. Manager,
Global R&D Applications Care Specialties: Hair Care; Home Care
Ashland, Inc.
1005 US Hwy No. 202/206 Bridgewater, NJ 08807
Tim Gillece
Ashland, Inc.
Table of Contents:
11.4.1 Introduction
11.4.2 The nature of hair damage
11.4.3 Simulating damaging hair treatments for studying the alleviating effects of protective and repair ingredients
a. Treatment schedules
1. Thermal Exposure
2. UV Exposure
3. Color wash-fastness techniques
4. Mechanical and thermal-mechanical damage
11.4.4 Instrumentation and experimental methods for studying damage and protection of hair
a. Physical-Chemical
1. Differential Scanning Calorimetry
2. Surface Tension, Wetting, and Contact Angle Analysis
3. Dynamic Vapor Sorption (DVS)
4. Streaming Potential
5. Time of Flight-Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (ToF-SIMS)
6. X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy (XPS)
7. Inverse Gas Chromatography (IGC)
b. Spectroscopic
1. Infrared Imaging (IR imaging)
2. Spectrofluorimetry
c. Microscopy
1. Optical Microscopy
2. Microfluorimetry
3. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM)
4. Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM)
d. Mechanical properties
1. Tensile testing
2. Impact Loading
3. Flexabrasion
4. Fatigue analysis
5. Torsional Strain
6. Texture analysis
7. Dynamic Mechanical Analysis (DMA)
e. Image analysis
f. Infrared Thermography (IRT)
11.4.5 Color protection
a. Color wash-fastness of oxidative hair color from shampoo stripping
1. Colorimetry
2. Image analysis of digital photographs
b. Color Protection from UV-Induced Fading
11.4.6 Repair Techniques
a. Protein Hydrolyzates
b. Cuticle Decementation and its Repair
c. Repair of Split Ends
d. Repair of the Surface Lipid Layer
e. Strategies for Permanent Mending of Hair
11.4.7 Tests to study whole hair attributes from damaging effects and improvements with cosmetic treatments
a. Panel testing
b. Fiber fragmentation techniques
c. Mechanical combing
d. Salon Testing
Conclusion
Acknowledgments
References
Part 11.5
Clinical Testing of Cosmetics and Skin Care Products: Methods and Instrumentations
Author:
Iqbal Sadiq, M.Phil.
Director Research and Technology
Product Investigations, Inc.
151 East Tenth Ave., Conshohocken, PA 19428, USA
Table of Contents:
11.5.1 Introduction
11.5.2 Cosmetics and Skin Care products for human use
11.5.3 Skin Strata
11.5.4 Bio-Instrumentation
a. General
b. Environmental Chamber
11.5.5 Skin Hydration
a. Skicon
b. Novameter
c. Corneometer
d. Sorption-Desorption Test
e. Moisture Accumulation Test
11.5.6 Trans-Epidermal Water Loss
a. Evaporimeter
b. Dermalab
11.5.7 Skin Blood Flow, Color, Erythema
a. Laser Doppler Flowmetry
b. Colorimetry
c. Reflectance Spectrophotometry
11.5.8 Imaging Techniques
a. Digital Photography
1. Face Photography
2. Polarized Light Photography
3. Fluorescence Photography
4. Ultraviolet Light Photography
b. Ultrasound
c. Videomicroscopy
d. Confocal Microscopy
e. Optical Coherence Tomography (OCT)
11.5.9 Skin Topography
a. Replica of Skin
b. Phase Shift Fringe Projection Device
c. Calculation of Roughness Values
d. Surface Area Calculation
11.5.10 Viscoelastic Measurements
a. Suction Device
b. Ballistometry
c. Torsional Ballistometry
11.5.11 Some Ex Vivo Techniques
a. Desquammation Measurement
b. Cyanoacrylate Surface Biopsy
c. Sebum Collection Assay
11.5.12 Application of Bio-Instrumentation: Some Examples
Conclusion
References
Part 11.6
Nanomaterials Characterization
Authors:
Simon Allen, Intertek MSG, D125 The Wilton Centre, Wilton, Redcar, United Kingdom, TS10 4RF
Christian Gimenez, Intertek Chalon, Espaces Entreprises, 12 Rue Alfred Kastler, Fragnes, France 71530
Peter DeSanto Jr., Intertek Allentown, 7201 Hamilton Blvd., Allentown, PA, USA 18195
Scott Hanton, Intertek Allentown
Todd McEvoy, Intertek Allentown
John Zielinski, Intertek Allentown
Table of Contents:
Introduction
11.6.1 Particle Size, Distribution, and Shape
a. Inorganic Particles
b. Liposoluble Organic Soluble Nanomaterials and Their Delivery Systems
c. Nanomaterial Legislation in Cosmetics
d. Nanomaterials Characterization
1. Particle Size, Distribution, and Shape
1.1 Electron Microscopy Techniques: TEM and SEM
1.2 Probe-based techniques: STM and AFM
1.3 Dynamic Light Scattering
1.4 High-resolution particle sedimentation
11.6.2 Surface Chemistry
a. Electron Spectroscopy
b. Auger electron spectroscopy (AES)
c. X-ray photo electron spectroscopy (XPS)
d. Surface Mass Spectrometry
1. Dynamic secondary ion mass spectrometry (DSIMS)
2. Static secondary ion mass spectrometry (SSIMS)
11.6.3 Surface Area and Porosity
a. BET Surface Area
b. Porosity
c. Sample Preparation
11.6.4 Physical Properties
a. Phase Identification using XRD
b. Phase Composition using XRD
c. Crystallite size using XRD
11.6.5 Bulk Metals Analysis
a. X-ray Fluorescencebulk and trace metals analysis
b. Trace and ultra-trace metals analysis using ICP-OES and ICP-MS
Conclusion
Terms
Equations
References
Part 11.7
In Vitro Assays to Measure Epigenetic Mechanisms Involved with Controlling Gene Expression
Author:
Robert Holtz, President
BioInnovation Laboratories
7220 W. Jefferson Ave., Ste 112Lakewood, CO 80235 USA
Table of Contents:
11.7.1 Introduction
11.7.2 DNA Modifications: DNA Methylation
a. DNA Methylation: Methyltransferases
b. DNA Methylation: Pharmacological Agents
11.7.3 Histone Modifications
a. Post-Translational Histone Modification Assays
b. Histone-Modifying Enzyme Assays
c. Pharmacological Agents That Impact Histone Modification
Conclusion
References
Part 12 Sustainability and Eco-Responsibility
Part 12.0 A Global Approach for the Cosmetic and Personal Care Industry
Editor's Overview
Alban Muller (President, Alban Muller Group)
Part 12.1 Defining Sustainability and how it changes the innovation process
Authors:
Jamie Pero Parker (Innovation Manager, RTI International) and
Phil Watson (Technology Commercialization Manager, RTI International)
12.1.1 Sustainabilitya critical business issue
12.1.2 Innovation is a critical but challenging component of any sustainability strategy
a. The concept of open innovation (OI)
b. Open innovation and sustainability are synergistic
c. Transparency
d. Collaboration
12.1.3 Integration of sustainability principles into innovation practices is evolutionary
a. Six key traits of sustainable companies
b. Few companies explicitly recognize and exploit open innovation as a tool to help them on this sustainability pathway
c. Companies practice open innovation for sustainability adopt a more complete model of open innovation
d. Practical lessons can be learned from companies that have recognized the synergies between sustainability and OI
References
Part 12.2
A Botanist's view of Sustainability: Use or Abuse in the Personal Care Industry?
Author:
Michael J. Balick (Vice President of Botanical Sciences, Director of the Institute of Economic Botany, New York Botanical Gardens)
12.2.1 Introduction
12.2.2 What happens once you find a species of interest?
1. Accurate identification of botanicals
2. Understanding why the plant is used in the product, and what part or form will give the best result to the consumer
3. Truthful representation of the local uses of the plant in marketing efforts
4. Making sure the environment is not degraded as a result of harvesting botanicals
5. Ensuring that local communities are not negatively impacted by the harvest of the plant
6. Under the spirit and intent of the United Nationssponsored Convention on Biodiversity, compensation to groups and source countries where the materials and ideas were obtained
12.2.3 Sustainable production of wild-harvested products
Acknowledgments
References
Part 12.3
The Herboretum Network for promoting local cultures and biodiversity
Author:
Genevive Bridenne (CIO, Alban Muller Group)
12.3.1 Introduction
12.3.2 The Herboretum, a true open-air plant laboratory dedicated to plants used in beauty, health, and well-being
a. An area of reflection, a scientific and natural approach
b. An area of protection, a long-term commitment to the protection of plant resources
12.3.3 The Herboretum organizes themed visits of four different kinds: school groups, the general public, professionals, and organizations
12.3.4 The Herboretum Network, a unique interface between the phytocosmetic industry and biodiversity
Conclusion
Part 12.4
The advantages and potential contribution of local cultures for carbon footprint reduction
Author:
Jean-Marc Seigneuret (Technical Director, Alban Muller Group)
12.4.1 Introduction
12.4.2 The use of plants in cosmetics
12.4.3 Plant origin
a. Name and identification
b. Wild plants
c. Cultivated plants
d. Good agricultural practices
12.4.5 Plant breeding
a. Mass selection
b. Cross-breeding
12.4.6 Farming method
a. Conventional farming (sustainable farming)
b. Organic farming
12.4.7 Initial post-harvest processing
a. The fresh plant
b. Dry plants
c. Storage
Conclusion
Part 12.5
Cosmetic ingredients from plant cell cultures: A new eco-sustainable approach
Author:
Roberto Dal Toso (R&D Manager IRB SpA)
12.5.1 Introduction
12.5.2 Traditional methods of botanical sourcing
12.5.3 Advantages of plant cell cultures: the new alternative
12.5.4 Sustainability of the biotechnological approach
12.5.5 Phenylpropanoids: structure, metabolism, and functions in plants
12.5.6 Standardization, Safety, and New Possibilities
12.5.7 Bioactive properties of PP for cosmetic applications
Conclusion
References
Part 12.6
Eco-responsibility applied to plant extraction
Author:
Alban Muller (President, Alban Muller Group)
12.6.1 Sourcing the plant raw material: Cultivation is key
12.6.2 Transforming the plant into a "drug" to become a cosmetic extract raw material
12.6.3 Extraction
a. The traditional extractions
b. The separation steps
c. The concentration steps
d. The eco-responsible steps around extraction
e. After extraction and concentration: Drying
f. Control steps
12.6.4 An eco-responsible extract
12.6.5 Certification or not?
12.6.6 The GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) parameter
12.6.7 Eco-responsibility applied to formulation
a. Oily phase
1. Oils
2. Vegetable oil and vegetable
3. Oil esters
4. Antioxidants
b. Water phase
Part 12.7
The industrial frame: Concrete, green solutions for production and waste management
Author:
Alban Muller (President, Alban Muller Group)
12.7.1 An example of an alternative, eco-friendly process for plant extraction: Zeodration, a unique eco-responsible solution to dry plant extracts
a. The principle
b. Ecological advantages
12.7.2 Water and biodiversity gardens
An original innovation: Restoring wetlands in industrial areas
a. The project's origins
b. Resources implemented
c. The return of animal biodiversity
c. A sensory environment, conducive to awareness
Part 13 Cosmetic Manufacturing
Part 13.0
Manufacture of Cosmetics Section Overview
Meyer R. Rosen
Part 13.1
Cosmetic Manufacturing Processes
Editor: Bruce Victor
Contributors:
Donald S. Buell Este Lauder Companies, Inc.
Rose Khosravani Este Lauder Companies, Inc.
Doug J. Melenkevitz Este Lauder Companies, Inc.
Bruce L. Victor Este Lauder Companies, Inc.
David P. Yacko Este Lauder Companies, Inc.
Meyer R. Rosen Interactive Consulting, Inc.
Table of Contents:
13.1 Introduction
13.1.2 Unit Operations
a. Mixing
1. Quality of Mixing
2. Mixing Rheology
3. Heat Transfer
4. Types of Reactors and Their Use in Cosmetics
5. Emulsion Processing EquipmentHeat Transfer
13.1.3.1 Wet SystemsSingle Phase (Miscible) Systems
a. Flow Patterns: Fluids with Low or Medium Viscosity (< 5,000 centipoise)
b. Impellers for Liquids of Low and Medium Viscosity
c. Power Consumption
d. Pumping Capacity and Velocity Head
e. Mixing Time
f. Influence of Vessel Shape
g. Flow Patterns: Fluids of High Viscosity
h. Impeller Types and Mixers for High-Viscosity Fluids
13.1.3.2 Wet Systems - Multiphase Systems
a. The Emulsification Process
b. Orientation of Phases
c. Addition of Surfactant
d. Emulsion Temperature
e. Emulsion Processing Equipment - Mixing
f. High-Shear Mixers and Dispersion Equipment
g. Batch Homogenizers
h. Continuous High-Pressure Homogenizers and Mixers
i. Processing of Water in Silicone Emulsions
j. Liposome Production
13.1.3.3 Wet Systems Liquid Solid Systems
a. Suspension of Solids
b. Milling Equipment
c. Colloid Mills
d. Ball Mills
e. Three-Roll Mills
13.1.4 Filling
a. Filling Parameters
b. Filling Machines
c. Filling Low-Viscosity Products (Lotions, Toners, Liquid Makeups)
d. Filling High-Viscosity Products (Creams, Mascaras, Masks)
e. FillingTraditional Lotion Products
f. Filling Shear-Sensitive Products
g. Filling Shampoos, Conditioners, CleansersProducts That Aerate
h. Packaging Lines
i. Warm and Hot Fills Creams and Dispersions
j. Warm and Hot Fills Godet Products
k. Warm and Hot FillsLipsticks, Lip Balms, Suppositories
l. Antiperspirants and Deodorants
13.1.5 Scale-Up
a. Agitation
b. High-Shear Mixing
c. Heat Transfer
d. Mass Transfer
13.1.6 Dry Systems
a. Blending Equipment
b. Shearing Equipment
c. Alternatives to the Hammer Mill
d. Batch Color Correction
e. Powder Grinds for Creams and Lotions BatchesDry Mix
f. Loose Powders
g. Filling Loose Powders
h. Filling Pressed Powders
i. Powder Scale-UpBatch
13.1.7.1 Wet Continuous Process
a. Emulsion Products Requiring Cooling
b. Emulsion Hair Conditioners
c. Hair Gels
d. Scale-Up of Continuous Systems
e. Production Design Considerations
13.1.7.2 Dry Continuous Processing
Bulk Powder Storage
References
Part 13.2
Cold-Process Emulsification Producing Sub-Micron Dispersions:
Formulation and Aesthetic Enhancement of Cosmetic and OTC Products
Authors:
Michael Ross
James Wilmott
Leading Edge Innovations, LLC
50 Tannery Road, Suite #5
Branchburg, New Jersey 08876
Table of Contents:
13.2.1 Contemporary Cosmetics
a. The Future
b. Properties of Emulsions
c. Issues with Emulsions
13.2.2 Factors Driving the Search for Alternate Approaches
a. Textural Diversity
b. Enhanced Performance
c. Marketplace Confusion
d. Regulatory
e. Resource Availability and Sustainability
13.2.4 Sub-Micron Micelles
a. Benefits of Being Smaller
13.2.5 Methods of Producing Sub-Micron Micelles
13.2.6 Formulating with Sub-Micron Micelles
13.2.7 Manufacturing Benefits
a. Protection of Key Materials
b. Consistency & Reproducibility
c. Reduced Manufacturing Cost
d. Global Consistency
13.2.8 Consumer Benefits
a. Enhanced Product Efficacy
b. Unique Aesthetic Experiences
c. Consistency and Reproducibility
e. Safety
f. Environmental
Conclusion
References
Part 13.3
Intelligent Selection and Manufacture of Natural Extracts
Author:
Satish Nayak, PhD
Kemin Industries,
2100 Maury Street, Des Moines, Iowa 50317, USA.
Table of Contents:
13.3.1 Introduction
13.3.2 Sources of Natural Ingredients
a. Plants
b. Microorganisms
c. Algae
13.2.3 Extraction Technologies
a. Solvent Extraction
b. Microwave Assisted Extraction (MAE)
c. Factors affecting efficiency of MAE
d. Ultrasonic Assisted Extraction (UAE)
e. Factors Affecting Efficiency of UAE
f. Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SCFE)
g. Factors affecting efficiency of SCFE
Conclusion
References
Part 14 Packaging
Part 14.1
Emerging Strategies for Sustainable Packaging:
Balancing Materials, Design, and Appearance
Author:
Wylie Royce
Royce Associates
Table of Contents:
14.1.1 Plastic: Material of choice for a generation
14.1.2 Material Options
a. Bio-based resins
b. Bio-based PET
c. Bio-based HDPE
d. Basf eco-flex and ecovio
e. Biodegradable additives
f. Bio-resin design limitations
g. Bio advantages
h. Bio limitations summarized
i. Conventional resins
j. Advantages
k. Limitations
14.1.3 design strategies
a. Choosing the material
b. Bio-resins
c. Bio-resin alloys
d. Conventional resins
14.1.4 sustainability: what makes a package sustainable (and it's not just the package anymore)
a. Measuring sustainable claims
b. The big picture
c. State your message
References
Part 14.2
Aerosol Containment and Delivery
Author:
Harry Wu
Aerosol Connection LLC.
Table of Contents
14.2.1 History
14.2.2 Definition
14.2.3 Principle of Aerosol Technology
14.2.4 Aerosol Systems
a. Homogenous systems
b. Heterogeneous systems
c. Barrier pack systems
14.2.5 Components of an Aerosol Container
a. Three-Piece Tin-Plated Steel
b. Two-Piece Tin-Plated Steel
c. Aluminum
d. Glass
e. Polyethylene Terephthalate
14.2.6 Valve
a. The Male Valve
b. Female Valve
14.2.7 Types of Valves
a. Standard valves
b. Powder valves
c. Spray valves
d. Vapor tap valves
e. Metering valves
f. Crimping
14.2.8 The Actuator
14.2.9 Propellants
a. Hydrocarbon Propellants
b. Dimethyl Ether
c. Hydrofluorocarbons
d. Compressed Gases
14.2.10 Filling
a. Cold Filling
b. Under-the-Cup Filling
c. Pressure Filling
d. Hot Water Bath Testing
e. Headspace
14.2.11 Operation
14.2.12 Alternate Systems
a. Bag-On-Valve
b. Bag-in-a-Can System
c. Sepro Can System
d. Lechner System
e. Piston System
f. Atmos Dispensing System
g. Pump-Activated Systems
1. Dry Spray Dispenser
2. F-Z Finger Pump Foamer
3. Co-Dispensing Systems
14.2.13 Formulating Aerosol Products: The Voice of Experience
a. Aerosol Containers
b. Aerosol Valves
c. The Actuators
14.2.14 Physical & Chemical Properties of the Product
a. Viscosity
b. Suspension System
c. Solvent System
d. pH Value
e. Foam Products
f. Sprayable Products
14.2.15 Stability Testing
References
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